JDM OBD1 Civic / Integra ECU Socketing / Chipping Instructions
JDM OBD1 Civic and Integra ECU socketing instructions. This covers the installation of our JDM ECU chip kit into OBD1 JDM civic/integra ECU's like the JDM P08,P30,and P72. Please note that the JDM (small case) ECU's use surface mount components which are much more difficult to work with than the USDM style ECU's with through-hole components. We recommend having this professionally done unless you have extensive soldering experience. If you are not comfortable attempting this yourself and would prefer that we do this for you, please see our JDM OBD1 ECU socketing / chipping service.
Overview:
* Bridge J1 on the back side of the ECU
* Install .004uf capacitor (brown) in locations C49 and C50 (on back side of ECU)
* Install .0001uf capacitor (white) in location C92 (on back side of ECU)
* Install .0001uf capacitor (white) in location C91 (on front side of ECU)
* Install the 74HC373 surface mount chip in location labeled 74HC373 on front of ECU
* Install the 28 pin socket in the location outlined on the board.
* NOTE: to convert an auto to a manual ECU, remove the resistor in location RP18 labeled "472" and replace with a 0ohm resistor or jumper wire. Remove RP17 and leave it open.
Detailed instructions:
Begin by removing the screws holding the top and bottom lids on and set the lids aside:
Orient the ECU upright with the ECU plugs facing to your left as shown:
If your ECU has a knock board (JDM P30, JDM P72), then unscrew the four screws holding it to the ECU casing and flip to the side. Be careful not to damage the white cable/lead connecting the knock board to the main circuit board. Not all JDM ECU's have a knock board, so if your ECU does not then simply skip this step:
The area on the front of the ECU that we will be focusing on is the 28 pin chip area and the 74hc373 surface mount chip area as indicated:
We will begin by removing the solder in the holes in the circuit board for the 28 pin socket/chip. This is easiest done from the back side of the ECU. Turn the ECU on its back side with the ECU plugs still facing your left. The 28 pin area now shown in yellow:
Using either a desoldering station or desoldering braid, remove the solder from all 28 holes as indicated:
After all 28 holes are desoldered, it should look like this:
Turn the ECU back over to the front side and take a look again at the 74hc373 chip location. Take note of the direction of the writing on the ECU board:
Carefully place the 74hc373 surface mount chip on the circuit board. Be sure that the writing on the chip is in the same direction as the writing on the ciruit board. Begin by heating up the 'legs' of the chip with a soldering iron until the solder on the circuit board melts to each leg. It is extremely important that you do not apply too much heat as it will easily damage the board and make The ECU unusable. After melting the solder on each 'leg' of the chip it should look similar to this:
Turn the ECU back over to the back side and apply a light layer of solder flux to the 28 holes that we desoldered earlier. A small flat-head screwdriver works excellent for this:
Insert the 28 pin machined socket into the 28 pin socket location with the half-moon shaped notch facing the ECU plugs as shown:
While keeping the 28 pin machined socket in place with your index finger, turn the ECU back over and solder the 28 pins to the circuit board:
The solder should be heated fully to ensure a strong connection, but not overheated to the point that you burn the board or melt the plastic part of the machined socket. Your solder should be shiny and smooth when complete. Dull solder is an indication of being too cold and/or not enough solder flux. A cold solder joint can easily lead to problems. Your soldering should look similar to this:
Since we are working on the back side of the ECU, we will continue with the 3 surface mount capacitors. The location for installation of the 3 surface mount capacitors are labeled on the board C49, C50, and C92 as indicated below:
At C49 and C50 you will install the .004uf capacitors (these are the darker capacitors - brownish color). Use a light amount of flux and carefully heat the solder until it glosses over and adheres to each end of the capacitor:
You may find it difficult to hold each capacitor in place while trying to solder. A pair of small needle nosed pliers works well to hold the surface mount capacitor while soldering with the other hand. Move on to the .0001uf capacitor (whitish in color) and solder onto location marked C92:
Flip the ECU back over to the front and solder the other .0001uf capacitor (whitish in color) to the location marked C91 as shown:
We can now move on to replacing the ECU main capacitor at location C27. This is not a requirement, but highly recommended as the main capacitor is common to fail on these ECU's. When this capacitor fails it often causes a lot of damage to the ECU. If you do not have a replacement capacitor, simply skip this step. Locate the C27 main capacitor:
Turn the ECU on the back side and desolder the two pins/legs of the capacitor from the ECU board:
The capacitor will simply pull away from the ECU board once the legs are desoldered leaving two empty holes. Apply a light layer of flux to the holes to prepare for the new capacitor:
Insert the new capacitor into location C27 with the white mark on the capacitor matching up with the white mark on the circuit board:
Turn over the ECU and solder in place:
Clip the extra lenth on the 'legs' with a small pair of side cutters or similar tool. Keep one of the extra lengths of the 'legs' for the next step.
The last step is bridging 'J1' on the back side of the ECU. This basically makes the ECU read from the 28 pin chip instead of the embedded factory ROM. If you ever need to return the ECU to stock, simply remove the J1 bridge. Locate J1 on the back side of the ECU:
Using a piece of the extra 'leg' from the previous step, solder in a 'bridge' on J1 as shown:
Your ECU socketing is now complete for use with a custom programmed 28 pin chip. You can now insert your programmed 28 pin chip into the 28 pin socket:
If you anticipate removing and reinstalling the chip several times, we highly recommend stacking a ZIF socket on top of the 28 pin machined socket, then inserting your chip into the ZIF. This will allow the chip to be removed and reinstalled many times without damaging the chip or the 28 pin machined socket:
Your socketing /chipping is now complete. Simply reinstall your top and bottom lids and begin use. Enjoy!
Overview:
* Bridge J1 on the back side of the ECU
* Install .004uf capacitor (brown) in locations C49 and C50 (on back side of ECU)
* Install .0001uf capacitor (white) in location C92 (on back side of ECU)
* Install .0001uf capacitor (white) in location C91 (on front side of ECU)
* Install the 74HC373 surface mount chip in location labeled 74HC373 on front of ECU
* Install the 28 pin socket in the location outlined on the board.
* NOTE: to convert an auto to a manual ECU, remove the resistor in location RP18 labeled "472" and replace with a 0ohm resistor or jumper wire. Remove RP17 and leave it open.
Detailed instructions:
Begin by removing the screws holding the top and bottom lids on and set the lids aside:
Orient the ECU upright with the ECU plugs facing to your left as shown:
If your ECU has a knock board (JDM P30, JDM P72), then unscrew the four screws holding it to the ECU casing and flip to the side. Be careful not to damage the white cable/lead connecting the knock board to the main circuit board. Not all JDM ECU's have a knock board, so if your ECU does not then simply skip this step:
The area on the front of the ECU that we will be focusing on is the 28 pin chip area and the 74hc373 surface mount chip area as indicated:
We will begin by removing the solder in the holes in the circuit board for the 28 pin socket/chip. This is easiest done from the back side of the ECU. Turn the ECU on its back side with the ECU plugs still facing your left. The 28 pin area now shown in yellow:
Using either a desoldering station or desoldering braid, remove the solder from all 28 holes as indicated:
After all 28 holes are desoldered, it should look like this:
Turn the ECU back over to the front side and take a look again at the 74hc373 chip location. Take note of the direction of the writing on the ECU board:
Carefully place the 74hc373 surface mount chip on the circuit board. Be sure that the writing on the chip is in the same direction as the writing on the ciruit board. Begin by heating up the 'legs' of the chip with a soldering iron until the solder on the circuit board melts to each leg. It is extremely important that you do not apply too much heat as it will easily damage the board and make The ECU unusable. After melting the solder on each 'leg' of the chip it should look similar to this:
Turn the ECU back over to the back side and apply a light layer of solder flux to the 28 holes that we desoldered earlier. A small flat-head screwdriver works excellent for this:
Insert the 28 pin machined socket into the 28 pin socket location with the half-moon shaped notch facing the ECU plugs as shown:
While keeping the 28 pin machined socket in place with your index finger, turn the ECU back over and solder the 28 pins to the circuit board:
The solder should be heated fully to ensure a strong connection, but not overheated to the point that you burn the board or melt the plastic part of the machined socket. Your solder should be shiny and smooth when complete. Dull solder is an indication of being too cold and/or not enough solder flux. A cold solder joint can easily lead to problems. Your soldering should look similar to this:
Since we are working on the back side of the ECU, we will continue with the 3 surface mount capacitors. The location for installation of the 3 surface mount capacitors are labeled on the board C49, C50, and C92 as indicated below:
At C49 and C50 you will install the .004uf capacitors (these are the darker capacitors - brownish color). Use a light amount of flux and carefully heat the solder until it glosses over and adheres to each end of the capacitor:
You may find it difficult to hold each capacitor in place while trying to solder. A pair of small needle nosed pliers works well to hold the surface mount capacitor while soldering with the other hand. Move on to the .0001uf capacitor (whitish in color) and solder onto location marked C92:
Flip the ECU back over to the front and solder the other .0001uf capacitor (whitish in color) to the location marked C91 as shown:
We can now move on to replacing the ECU main capacitor at location C27. This is not a requirement, but highly recommended as the main capacitor is common to fail on these ECU's. When this capacitor fails it often causes a lot of damage to the ECU. If you do not have a replacement capacitor, simply skip this step. Locate the C27 main capacitor:
Turn the ECU on the back side and desolder the two pins/legs of the capacitor from the ECU board:
The capacitor will simply pull away from the ECU board once the legs are desoldered leaving two empty holes. Apply a light layer of flux to the holes to prepare for the new capacitor:
Insert the new capacitor into location C27 with the white mark on the capacitor matching up with the white mark on the circuit board:
Turn over the ECU and solder in place:
Clip the extra lenth on the 'legs' with a small pair of side cutters or similar tool. Keep one of the extra lengths of the 'legs' for the next step.
The last step is bridging 'J1' on the back side of the ECU. This basically makes the ECU read from the 28 pin chip instead of the embedded factory ROM. If you ever need to return the ECU to stock, simply remove the J1 bridge. Locate J1 on the back side of the ECU:
Using a piece of the extra 'leg' from the previous step, solder in a 'bridge' on J1 as shown:
Your ECU socketing is now complete for use with a custom programmed 28 pin chip. You can now insert your programmed 28 pin chip into the 28 pin socket:
If you anticipate removing and reinstalling the chip several times, we highly recommend stacking a ZIF socket on top of the 28 pin machined socket, then inserting your chip into the ZIF. This will allow the chip to be removed and reinstalled many times without damaging the chip or the 28 pin machined socket:
Your socketing /chipping is now complete. Simply reinstall your top and bottom lids and begin use. Enjoy!